All of my most frequently asked questions will be addressed in this section of the site; so feel free to browse, and forward any inquires you might have for me via Instagram; I will answer them to the best of my ability.
I use a Sony A7ii paired with the Sony 85mm F/1.8 and the Rokinon 35mm F/1.4. This is my primary go to set up for almost every photo I take because of the stellar image quality, incredible portrait friendly color profiles, extremely useful in body image stabilization and fantastic subject to foreground/background separation. It`s also light weight, so shooting for long hours is a breeze, and it has withstood every shooting condition I have thrown it into.
It all depends on the raw file itself. My editing times change according the difficulty of the edit, how many special effects I want to do, and how much I fancy it, But my shortest time is typically 30-45 minutes and sometimes it can go to 2-4 hours if I really want to go crazy.
I think the absolute best apps/programs to start your journey into editing software are programs like VSCO, Adobe Lightroom Mobile, pretty much the majority of phone apps that you can install on your phone. They are easy to learn, and user friendly.
I have a Sony A7ii and it has in body image stabilization; so it makes night neon photography much easier to do handheld with shutter speeds as low as 1/20th of a second and it won`t be blurry. Also it`s full frame so the sensitivity to low light is much stronger than a crop sensor. I try my best to never go over 800 or 1000 ISO then I`ll keep the shutter as low as I possibly can. Then the aperture will never go above f/2.8 to let in as much light as possible.
I have always been attracted to psychedelic color schemes with a crisp/clean aesthetic. I do my best to keep my subject`s skin natural but still balanced well enough with the surrounding color palette to portray whatever story I`m attempting to convey. The way I manage to do that is by slightly underexposing each of my photos to retain detail in my highlights, then bring back detail from the shadows (Pro tip: it will always be 10X easier to bring back detail in underexposed shadows, than to fix blown out highlights in post). Once I`ve gotten those carefully crafted shots I`ll use Lightroom first for basic adjustments, then transfer it over to Photoshop for further retouching, color enhancements, a unique lighting combination for the glass like texture, and maybe a couple special effects depending on if the photo needs it.
I have never taken any online or university courses on photography or graphic design. My only teachers are Google, Youtube, and a whole lot of trial and error from doing dozens of shoots.
The three most important components too me for finding the best locations are leading lines/natural framing. Lighting that cuts off all vertical light, meaning there is only light that will fill harsh shadows without the use of a flash or reflector. And plenty of color too manipulate further in post production.
Too elaborate on finding horizontal lighting, search for locations that are in the shadows facing a brighter portion of light with large obstructions like trees, buildings, mountains etc. My personal favorite locations are in alleyways around sunset or right after noon. At that point I can manipulate the lighting with the surrounding buildings bouncing light towards my subject as well as using the closed in walls for great contrast and leading lines.